The merchandising people have been doing a roaring trade in Madness fez hats, as sported by saxophonist Lee Thompson. When thousands of cap-wearing men all start bopping and waddling to mimic the band’s signature dance moves, it’s like watching March of the Penguins, with fezzes.

Still, if you can’t enjoy yourself at a Madness gig at Christmas, you can’t enjoy yourself anywhere. There’s a lady in full bridal regalia and a chap dressed as Thomas the Tank Engine’s Fat Controller. The crowd sing every “one, two, three” in Shut Up and every “whoa, whoa” in Wings of a Dove.

Nostalgia is in the air, but then, it always was. For all the Nutty Boys’ personas, Madness have always wistfully reflected on our disappearing way of life. Whether playing newer tracks (Leon, My Girl 2) or old, their songs deliver poignant, melancholy observations with just the right amount of deadpan humour and killer melodies to make them stupidly uplifting.

The band are down to a six-piece again following the departure of Chas Smash, who has taken his “Don’t watch that …” intro to One Step Beyond with him. Still, their sunglassed and suited singer Suggs is on fine form, offering sage advice to post-pub fans. “If you can hold on to the first lamp-post, then the second lamp-post, you can find your way home,” he says, introducing 1999’s outstandingly drunken Lovestruck.

The frontman announces “the entertainment storm”, a walloping home run of six classics in a row, from Baggy Trousers to It Must Be Love. As fezzes are hurled in the air in celebration, Lee Thompson says: “It goes too quickly. We’ve had so much fun.” He means the gig, but that’s their wonderful career in a nutshell.

• At Odyssey Arena, Belfast, on 15 December. Box office: 028-9076 6000. Then touring.

• Suggs and Mike Barson of Madness: how we made One Step Beyond